Reputation of the Paris and London Schools in Australia
34 The French companies called a number of witnesses on this issue. They included professional cooking instructors and writers on cookery and an experienced amateur cook as well as a marketing expert. In general terms there was evidence of the witnesses' awareness of either the Paris or London school or both, and of reference to them in Australian publications. There was no evidence of sales or advertising by the French companies in Australia before the priority dates.
35 Jillian Adams is a cookery teacher. She holds the degree of Bachelor of Arts and a Diploma of Education. She has spent most of her working life as an educator in cookery. She has worked as a chef in Australia and overseas. She has been employed in the food hygiene industry. In 1993 she opened a cafe in Williamstown. In 1996 she established a business "Serious Cooks" which runs cookery classes and sells cook books and kitchen products. She is currently employed as a vocational education training scheme teacher by a private training institution.
36 In the early 1970s she developed a keen interest in cooking, especially French cooking. She deposed:
"In the early 1970s, I was aware that a company called Le Cordon Bleu operated French cooking schools in London and in Paris." (As has been seen, this was not in fact correct.)
In the early to mid 1970s she recalls seeing the magazine "The Cordon Bleu Cookery Course" available for sale in Victorian newsagencies. She bought about twenty of the series. She also bought a book called "The Cordon Bleu Cook Book". In the late 1970s she decided to study French cooking and enquired about courses available. At the suggestion of a cookery teacher in Melbourne, Ms Diane Holouige, she decided to go to the Paris school. She telephoned the French Embassy to find out more information and was told that it offered various types of courses which were conducted in French. She enrolled at the Paris school in 1979 and completed a two month advanced cooking course. The recipes taught were very traditional and the students were required to prepare food by hand without the aid of electrical appliances. She stayed on in Paris for about four months, then went to England and worked as a cook for several employers. She returned to Australia on a date which does not emerge from the evidence. During her career she has used her attendance at the Paris school as a marketing tool. For example she prepared a course for the Sandy Beach Centre at Sandringham, the brochure for which refers to her studying at the Paris school. In cross-examination she said that at the time she went to the Paris school in 1979 she was aware of the London school and agreed that there was "a separate sort of reputation" in her mind between the two. As she put it
"The London school had a reputation as a kind of finishing school for London girls, whereas the French school had a reputation for classical French cooking."
She said she had "no interest in the London school at all". She agreed that it was a "source of particular pride" that she went to the Paris school as opposed to the London school.
37 Suzanne Gibbs is the daughter of the very well known cooking writer Margaret Fulton, who also gave evidence. In 1969 and 1970 Mrs Gibbs, on her mother's recommendation, studied at the London school. For eighteen months thereafter she was head sweet and pastry chef at the Cordon Bleu Restaurant in London. She returned to Australia in 1972 and since that time has worked as a cookery and food writer rather than as a chef. She has written for Women's Day, Australian Home Beautiful, The Sunday Telegraph and New Idea. Her association with the last mentioned began in 1982 and lasted for eighteen years. She has also written nine cook books all of which have been published in Australia, commencing with The French Cook Book (1972). This was particularly successful. She says the attendance at the London school is used as a marketing tool by many people in the food industry. She has mentioned the London school in several of her publications, including The French Cook Book. In cross-examination she said that when she first went to London she was aware that the Paris school existed and that it had a very high reputation, but her French was not sufficiently good so she chose the London school. She regarded both of them as teaching "the Cordon Bleu style of cookery" although there was some difference in methods of instruction, for example in the London school the students formed small groups. She distinguished between "French cooking" and "Cordon Bleu cooking" saying "you're learning the classic techniques" in the latter. Forms of French cooking other than "Cordon Bleu cooking" were possibly more modern and "probably more provincial".
38 Mrs Margaret Fulton OAM has had a distinguished career in food writing extending over fifty years. She has written for most of the major Australian women's magazines, including Woman, Woman's Day and New Idea. A regular column with the lastmentioned magazine began twenty-one years ago and continues. Her first cook book The Margaret Fulton Cook Book was published in 1968 and sold over 100,000 copies at the first print run. In the late 1970s, together with her daughter Mrs Gibbs, she wrote a thirty-nine part series entitled "The Margaret Fulton Cookery Course" which was successfully sold in newsagents and later published as a best selling book. In 1983 she published "The Encyclopaedia of Food and Cookery". She received the Medal of the Order of Australia in 1983 in recognition of her contribution to food journalism in Australia.
39 Since the start of her career in the early 1960s she has been aware that "the Cordon Bleu schools of London and Paris have enjoyed an excellent reputation … amongst people in the cooking industry in Australia". She has come into contact with a large number of Australian food writers, chefs, restaurateurs and others in the food industry who have told her that "they have a high regard for the Cordon Bleu cookery schools". She deposed:
"In particular, I note that during the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s Australians aspiring to learn the best cooking techniques considered the Paris and London Cordon Bleu cookery schools were the best place to learn those techniques. These schools taught the art of 'blue ribbon' cookery, or the highest level of cookery techniques."
40 She encouraged her daughter Mrs Gibbs to attend the London school because she had heard that it adopted very good teaching methods and that its students appeared to be in demand for work after graduation.
41 In the mid 1970s Mrs Fulton travelled to London to look at English trends in cookery. She decided to visit the London school because it had been the subject of many reports in the Australia media including newspapers and womens magazines and Cordon Bleu cook books that were used by cooks in Australia at that time.
42 Included in her collection are various Cordon Bleu publications, including the Cordon Bleu Cookery Course, a series of magazines each covering a different aspect of cooking. This series was very popular amongst home cooks during the 1970s. In cross-examination she gave the following evidence:
"Q. Your perception was that there was some difference, however difficult it is to identify, between the styles of cooking in France and London, the respective Cordon Bleu schools?
A. I think that would be a very fine line to put on it because both schools teach the correct way of doing things and the ways which they have perfected, of really getting the best results. They are both very good schools. Whether you are taught to make pastry for 10 or a thousand, you still go back to the way you do it for 10 because you then can learn the trade. It's still an open choice. I can only say that.
Q. You mentioned that there was a kind of cooking equivalent for both of those. Was that a traditional high French cuisine style of cooking for each of the Cordon Bleu schools in London and Paris?
A. Yes.
Q. That kind of cooking, is that also taught by other schools in Europe or, for instance, at the La Varenne school?
A. I don't think that La Varenne was a choice then. It is now but I don't think when my daughter went to London to the Cordon Bleu that the La Varenne was a choice.
Q. Would you agree with me that if you were to send a person to learn cooking in the La Varenne school, you would then [sic] the cordon bleu style of cooking?
A. Yes, because the woman who is the head of La Varenne was trained at the Cordon Bleu in London so she has taken what she's learnt from the Cordon Bleu, I gather, and she has that - when I talk to her it is like a common language that we both understand.
Q. It is a language which you understand, notwithstanding that you haven't actually attended a course at one of the cordon bleu schools because you have learned that through other --- ?
A. I have learnt - yes, and I have learnt to respect it because you see the perfection and you see that a thing works every time when you do things according to, you know, something that somebody as worked out.
Q. So is it the case that when you're teaching somebody how to cook a French dish that you apply the cordon bleu style of cooking as best you can?
A. Yes."
43 Patricia Joan Duncan was married in 1950. Since 1963, following the birth of her daughter, she has been wholly occupied as a housewife. She has always taken a great interest in cooking good family meals and collecting new recipes from sources such as television programs, newspaper and magazine articles and cookery books.
44 In the mid 1950s she saw the film "Sabrina" starring Audrey Hepburn playing a young American girl sent by her father to Paris to study French culinary arts at the Paris school.
45 In the mid to late 1950s Mrs Dione Lucas, a graduate of the Paris school, visited Australia. In particular there was a visit in mid 1956 which received great publicity because she was a noted television chef in the United States. The visit was publicised in The Australian Women's Weekly and Mrs Lucas held public cooking demonstrations. Mrs Duncan was aware that Mrs Lucas held "a coveted award in cooking, the 'Cordon Bleu' or 'Blue Ribbon' from the famous Paris school". Mrs Lucas gave a demonstration at the Myer Department store in Melbourne. Mrs Duncan produced an article from The Australian Women's Weekly of 6 June 1956 headed "Cooks tour of Australia - leading cuisinere to demonstrate for us" which stated that
"Mrs Lucas, holder of the cuisinere's most coveted award - Le Cordon Bleu (Blue Ribbon) will demonstrate to Mrs Australia precisely why the proof of the pudding is in the cook."
46 The article refers to planned demonstrations by Mrs Lucas in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Adelaide. The article mentions that in 1928 Mrs Lucas "enrolled in the famous L'ecole Cordon Bleu" and later with a "fellow honours graduate of the school Rosemary Hume" went to Chelsea, London to open a cookery school with restaurant attached "Au Petit Cordon Bleu". The cover of that issue of The Australian Women's Weekly shows a picture of Mrs Lucas in a kitchen with the words "Dione Lucas - America's Blue Ribbon Cook to give demonstrations here".
47 In 1968-1969 Mrs Duncan purchased several issues of the weekly magazine "Cordon Bleu Cookery Course". She produced in evidence nine issues of that magazine and believes that she purchased more which have subsequently been lost or given away. She says that the title of that course
"was in itself a good advertisement for the magazines, since I immediately associated this title with the 'Cordon Bleu' cookery school in Paris, which I had read and heard about in the media many times."
48 On the front cover of each issue of the magazine appear the words "PUBLISHED BY PURNELL IN ASSOCIATON WITH THE CORDON BLEU COOKERY SCHOOL - IN WEEKLY PARTS". The words "cordon bleu" in this statement on the magazine are in upper case. In the title itself the words are all in lower case. The words are not presented as a proper noun. Mrs Duncan says that she only purchased those issues which were most appealing to her. Her sister-in-law also purchased many issues and sometimes they lent each other issues.
49 During the late 1960s and 1970s The Sun newspaper in Melbourne regularly featured a cookery writer called Nancy Baldwin who was represented by the newspaper as being a graduate of the London school. Two of Nancy Baldwin's columns were produced in evidence, one dated 8 October 1974 and another the date of which does not appear. Neither mentions the London or Paris schools.
50 Also in about the early 1970s, according to Mrs Duncan, The Sun published two cook books which were collections of Nancy Baldwin's recipes from her newspaper columns. These were called "The Sun News Pictorial Dollar Cook Book" and "Dollar Cook Book No 2". On the cover of the first of these two books there appears "By Nancy Baldwin The Sun's Cordon Bleu Cook". An introduction says:
"For two years these recipes have been the responsibility of Nancy Baldwin, a graduate of the Emily McPherson College and a holder of the advanced certificate of the Cordon Bleu School of Cookery, London."
51 In "Dollar Cook Book No 2"it is said:
"90,000 copies of the first Dollar Cook Book were sold all over Australia. That was two years ago and since then Cordon Bleu cook Nancy Baldwin has tested another 1600 recipes in her model kitchen and now she presents the best 200 of them in this new Dollar Cook Book No 2. Nancy, a holder of the advanced certificate of the Cordon Bleu School of Cookery, London, selected the 200 recipes for their wide appeal to practical housewives."
52 Mrs Duncan refers to "another famous graduate of the Cordon Bleu cookery schools" known to her from as early as 1980, one Anne Wilan. Anne Wilan came to Australia several times from 1980 onwards. After being educated at the Paris and London schools and having taught at the Paris school she opened her own cookery school "La Varenne"in Paris. For eight weeks from 30 April 1980 The Australian Women's Weekly ran a special insert in the magazine entitled "French Cookery School". On its cover this is described as "an eight part course in French cookery which takes the mystery and mystique out of French cuisine". The introduction refers to the author as having
"read economics at Cambridge, studied and taught at London's Cordon Bleu school and studied at the Ecole de Cordon Bleu in Paris, where she won the grande diplome, the school's highest award."
53 Mrs Duncan deposed:
"As far back as I can remember, some 50 or 60 years, I have always associated the term 'Cordon Bleu' with the famous 'Cordon Bleu' cookery of the 'Cordon Bleu' schools in London and Paris. To me 'Cordon Bleu' means the high quality or 'Blue Ribbon' French cookery which originated at those schools."
54 Mr Kevin Luscombe is the co-founder of Growth Solutions Group, a firm providing management consultancy services in the area of strategic marketing. Prior to the establishment of that business in 1996 he had been for sixteen years the Chief Executive Officer of Luscombe & Partners, an advertising agency. Before that he had been employed for many years in the marketing department of H J Heinz Company Australia Limited. He described his instructions from the French companies' solicitors as being
"to provide evidence about marketing advertising activities concerned with strong brands known to the majority of consumers or to persons within a specified group in the Australian marketplace."
55 His evidence discusses the creation of a "brand image". The "brand building process" involves "understanding and anticipating the needs and desires of consumers and the key attributes of the product". He speaks of international brands which "transcend national borders" and extend their product range by creating "sub brands or brand extensions". This is also referred to as "lengthening" the brand. He deposes that he was aware of the existence of "the Cordon Bleu cookery schools" in the 1970s and 1980s and he considers that
"since at least the 1970s the name 'Cordon Bleu' has had a strong market presence and association in London and Paris Cordon Bleu cookery schools. I consider that during the 1970s and 1980s the majority of middle and upper Australia (and particularly the female portion of the population) would have been familiar with the brand 'Cordon Bleu' and assigned to that brand a 'value'."
56 That "value" he earlier defines as:
"a mark of distinction in the provision of culinary services, culinary education, chefs and recipes."
57 Mr Luscombe does not proffer any survey or other evidence for this conclusion other than to say that he would "expect" that public awareness of a brand name "would have been fostered" by public demonstrations of cookery by visiting experts, and references to "Cordon Bleu"in cookery and other magazines and references to Cordon Bleu in the media, including both television and radio.